Big shout to Washington Heights, my old neighborhood. 
Jin’s was there near the corner when I came up the stairs from the A. It was a lot of stairs. I know the 181st station isn’t the deepest in the system (I believe that honor goes to an F stop somewhere), but from the platform it was 20 steps to the balcony, then six long sets more up to the turnstiles and then another flight up to the sidewalk. The escalators sometimes worked. By the time the rushour crush and I emerged from deep underground, we were cranky and tired from our uptown commutes and just wanted to go home for dinner.
In the northern Manhattan food desert, Jin’s was a 24-hour cornerstore oasis. I stopped there every evening and brought home something fresh. Jay, the cashier, and I were on good terms. If I was short a few bucks, he knew I was good for it. He was there every night, working for his dad, Jin. Jay would be watching korean anime and old martial arts flicks on his portable dvd player while he rang you up. There was no scanner at the register, just Jay and an adding machine. Nothing I bought ever cost the same thing twice. Jay would goodnaturedly give me shit for refusing a plastic bag and instead piling my groceries into my purse. I’m just going across the street, I’d tell him. 

Big shout to Washington Heights, my old neighborhood

Jin’s was there near the corner when I came up the stairs from the A. It was a lot of stairs. I know the 181st station isn’t the deepest in the system (I believe that honor goes to an F stop somewhere), but from the platform it was 20 steps to the balcony, then six long sets more up to the turnstiles and then another flight up to the sidewalk. The escalators sometimes worked. By the time the rushour crush and I emerged from deep underground, we were cranky and tired from our uptown commutes and just wanted to go home for dinner.

In the northern Manhattan food desert, Jin’s was a 24-hour cornerstore oasis. I stopped there every evening and brought home something fresh. Jay, the cashier, and I were on good terms. If I was short a few bucks, he knew I was good for it. He was there every night, working for his dad, Jin. Jay would be watching korean anime and old martial arts flicks on his portable dvd player while he rang you up. There was no scanner at the register, just Jay and an adding machine. Nothing I bought ever cost the same thing twice. Jay would goodnaturedly give me shit for refusing a plastic bag and instead piling my groceries into my purse. I’m just going across the street, I’d tell him. 


Fudgie the Whale at Apt. 5F - Washington Heights.
If you have a minute, you should click through and read my post about how we, Fudgie included, celebrated my birth back in NYC.

Fudgie the Whale at Apt. 5F - Washington Heights.

If you have a minute, you should click through and read my post about how we, Fudgie included, celebrated my birth back in NYC.


My father’s grandparents- both maternal and paternal- came over together from the same small town in Moldova, a country at the edge of eastern Europe’s Black Sea.  At their time it was called Bessarabia and had been recently acquired from the Ottomans by the Russians.  My great-grandparents came before there was such a thing as Ellis Island.  They and the rest of the huddled masses yearning to be free disembarked at Castle Garden, where Battery Park is now.  
I don’t know if my great-grandparents spoke Rumanian or Russian.  They certainly had no allegiance to the Czar.  My dad says his grandparents fasted in order to appear sickly and underweight, to avoid the draft of the Russian Army.  I do know that my great-grandparents spoke Yiddish, that arcane mix of Hebrew and German.  I know because my dad’s parents spoke it and who but own their parents would have taught them?
My father grew up in New York in the presence of Yiddish, but was raised only speaking English.  Often you hear of cases where the parents and grandparents spoke hushed Yiddish when they wanted to keep secrets from die Kinder.  That’s my dad’s story, too.
My dad’s immigrant grandparents probably didn’t speak a word of English when they were dropped off at Manhattan’s southern tip.  Undoubtedly they were quick learners: one grandpa went to New Jersey to work for  Edison. He produced scores of patents for rechargeable batteries (did you know they had electric trucks in the very early 20th century!) and, of all things, universal clothes hangers.  The other grandpa, slightly more of a schmuck, went on to become a mohel and a sidewalk huckster, selling small chunks of  Octagon soap that he re-packaged, re-branded and sold at a steep mark-up to crowds of poor Lower East Side jews.  
Their illustrious accomplishments aside, English was certainly not the native language of my Moldovan great-grandparents.  Further, I can’t imagine they brought up their children speaking a language with which they had a shaky grasp; that’s simply not how language transmission occurs.  You raise your children in whatever language you are most comfortable.  My grandpa was born on the Lower East Side in a Clinton Street tenement.  My grandma lived by Yeshiva University in Washington Heights.  Both were surrounded by jews and people speaking Yiddish.  Surely there was assimilation into American culture, but given the tight-knit nature of those jewish enclaves there was probably little pressure to raise children in English, a foreign language.  
It hadn’t occurred to my dad that his parents were likely native Yiddish speaker, but it makes perfect sense to me.  I never met my great-grandparents or even my grandparents, so I could never ask for myself.  Ultimately, their Sprache has been lost between the cracks of Manhattan’s sidewalks.
Still, I feel like their history is close to me and I want to understand the language of their ghosts.  I studied German, the closest you could get to Yiddish at Reed.  I lived in Washington Heights and worked in the East Village; I paid my homage at the 10th street baths.  When I can, I’ll learn Yiddish.  In the mean time, I will visit the last Yiddish bookstore in Manhattan.

My father’s grandparents- both maternal and paternal- came over together from the same small town in Moldova, a country at the edge of eastern Europe’s Black Sea.  At their time it was called Bessarabia and had been recently acquired from the Ottomans by the Russians.  My great-grandparents came before there was such a thing as Ellis Island.  They and the rest of the huddled masses yearning to be free disembarked at Castle Garden, where Battery Park is now.  

I don’t know if my great-grandparents spoke Rumanian or Russian.  They certainly had no allegiance to the Czar.  My dad says his grandparents fasted in order to appear sickly and underweight, to avoid the draft of the Russian Army.  I do know that my great-grandparents spoke Yiddish, that arcane mix of Hebrew and German.  I know because my dad’s parents spoke it and who but own their parents would have taught them?

My father grew up in New York in the presence of Yiddish, but was raised only speaking English.  Often you hear of cases where the parents and grandparents spoke hushed Yiddish when they wanted to keep secrets from die Kinder.  That’s my dad’s story, too.

My dad’s immigrant grandparents probably didn’t speak a word of English when they were dropped off at Manhattan’s southern tip.  Undoubtedly they were quick learners: one grandpa went to New Jersey to work for  Edison. He produced scores of patents for rechargeable batteries (did you know they had electric trucks in the very early 20th century!) and, of all things, universal clothes hangers.  The other grandpa, slightly more of a schmuck, went on to become a mohel and a sidewalk huckster, selling small chunks of  Octagon soap that he re-packaged, re-branded and sold at a steep mark-up to crowds of poor Lower East Side jews.  

Their illustrious accomplishments aside, English was certainly not the native language of my Moldovan great-grandparents.  Further, I can’t imagine they brought up their children speaking a language with which they had a shaky grasp; that’s simply not how language transmission occurs.  You raise your children in whatever language you are most comfortable.  My grandpa was born on the Lower East Side in a Clinton Street tenement.  My grandma lived by Yeshiva University in Washington Heights.  Both were surrounded by jews and people speaking Yiddish.  Surely there was assimilation into American culture, but given the tight-knit nature of those jewish enclaves there was probably little pressure to raise children in English, a foreign language.  

It hadn’t occurred to my dad that his parents were likely native Yiddish speaker, but it makes perfect sense to me.  I never met my great-grandparents or even my grandparents, so I could never ask for myself.  Ultimately, their Sprache has been lost between the cracks of Manhattan’s sidewalks.

Still, I feel like their history is close to me and I want to understand the language of their ghosts.  I studied German, the closest you could get to Yiddish at Reed.  I lived in Washington Heights and worked in the East Village; I paid my homage at the 10th street baths.  When I can, I’ll learn Yiddish.  In the mean time, I will visit the last Yiddish bookstore in Manhattan.



Things I’ll miss about New York, google maps edition:
The 5-minute walk to my sister’s house. It’s way more bearable to live in the boonies of Fort Washington when the people I love live with, or near me.
For the three and a half years I was away at undergrad, I lived as far from my family as you could possibly get on the continental United States.  That was partially a coincidence, but not entirely.  It sucks that now that we all get along so well, I’m moving back out west.

Things I’ll miss about New York, google maps edition:

The 5-minute walk to my sister’s house. It’s way more bearable to live in the boonies of Fort Washington when the people I love live with, or near me.

For the three and a half years I was away at undergrad, I lived as far from my family as you could possibly get on the continental United States.  That was partially a coincidence, but not entirely.  It sucks that now that we all get along so well, I’m moving back out west.


Things I will miss about nyc: Northern Manhattan photo installment.
Inwood Hill Park is at the top of this little island.  North of Harlem.  North of Washington Heights, even.  Oh, you didn’t know that the streets kept going past 168th, past 181st, past 200th?  Yes, you can live at 218th street and still be on Manhattan.  No, I do not live in the Bronx, I find myself explaining to people regularly; their limited knowledge of the city makes me feel like I’m in on the secret of Northern Manhattan.
If you want in on the secret, then go get yourself lost in the wilderness of Inwood Hill.  (The park is lovely, dark and deep).  Huge old-growth trees make the densest shade you’ll find in this city and there’s twisting and turning paths that lead you to huge sheer rock faces.
Two years ago, my sister and I climbed up to some summit in the park. It was a hot day but no one else seemed to be out. We didn’t meet anyone on our climb up the massive hill and when we got to the top, we realized that we were likely the two most isolated people in all of Manhattan. Can you Manhattanites remember the last time you knew for certain that there was no one within several hundred feet of you in any direction? That doesn’t seem like much when I write it out, but to my sister and I it felt like we had entered a twilight zone, or a secret shadow city of New York.
I encourage you all to go sometime. Bring a camera. Inwood Hill Park is full of dinosaurs.
(photo via loscheiner)

Things I will miss about nyc: Northern Manhattan photo installment.

Inwood Hill Park is at the top of this little island.  North of Harlem.  North of Washington Heights, even.  Oh, you didn’t know that the streets kept going past 168th, past 181st, past 200th?  Yes, you can live at 218th street and still be on Manhattan.  No, I do not live in the Bronx, I find myself explaining to people regularly; their limited knowledge of the city makes me feel like I’m in on the secret of Northern Manhattan.

If you want in on the secret, then go get yourself lost in the wilderness of Inwood Hill.  (The park is lovely, dark and deep).  Huge old-growth trees make the densest shade you’ll find in this city and there’s twisting and turning paths that lead you to huge sheer rock faces.

Two years ago, my sister and I climbed up to some summit in the park. It was a hot day but no one else seemed to be out. We didn’t meet anyone on our climb up the massive hill and when we got to the top, we realized that we were likely the two most isolated people in all of Manhattan. Can you Manhattanites remember the last time you knew for certain that there was no one within several hundred feet of you in any direction? That doesn’t seem like much when I write it out, but to my sister and I it felt like we had entered a twilight zone, or a secret shadow city of New York.

I encourage you all to go sometime. Bring a camera. Inwood Hill Park is full of dinosaurs.

(photo via loscheiner)